{"id":3323,"date":"2025-12-08T15:11:30","date_gmt":"2025-12-08T15:11:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/followfichte.com\/?page_id=3323"},"modified":"2025-12-09T19:53:49","modified_gmt":"2025-12-09T19:53:49","slug":"2300-kilometers-through-germany-05","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/followfichte.com\/de\/2300-kilometers-through-germany-05\/","title":{"rendered":"2300 kilometers through Germany \u2013 Part V"},"content":{"rendered":"

Back to trip overview<\/a> | Part I<\/a> | Part II<\/a> | Part III<\/a> | Part IV<\/a> | Part V<\/strong> | Part VI<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

From F\u00fcssen to Heidelberg<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

548 kilometers | 4 days<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Westwards along the Alps<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Leaving that Austrian farmhouse after a beautiful local exploration day wasn\u2019t easy. We had a great time there and decided to come back very soon, for a longer stay and more exploration. The weather was on our side again, though, and we were looking forward to keeping cycling along the Alps going westward, crossing the German region called Allg\u00e4u<\/em>. Rolling hills, open area, alpine mountains as a backdrop, plenty of cows, small farms and towns every couple of kilometers.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Crossing the hilly terrain of the Allg\u00e4u on calm bike paths<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After 100 kilometers we reached Germany\u2019s largest lake, the Bodensee<\/em> (Lake Constance). Supposedly, there\u2019s a cycling route around the lake, and we\u2019d be taking part of it to cut across our east-west passage through the country. The Lake Constance section turned out being somewhat disappointing, though: the roads got larger and busier, and there was not too much to see of the lake itself. Most of its shoreline seemed to be private property, not allowing too many good views. <\/p>\n\n\n

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The Allg\u00e4u turned out to be our most favourite region to cycle in Germany. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Small towns we passed along the way (like Immenstadt<\/em>, Lindau<\/em>, or Friedrichshafen<\/em>) were quite picturesque and welcome places to stop for some coffee and cake or other local snacks. Especially Meersburg<\/em>, where we arrived at our B&B after 150km and just in time before a heavy rainstorm. <\/p>\n\n\n

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The Old Castle of Meersburg, overlooking Lake Constance. One of the oldest surviving medieval castles in Germany, built in the seventh century.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Crossing the Black Forest<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

In some ways, Germany seems so small! It took less than a day to leave Lake Constance and one of the rare flat sections of this trip behind, just before entering the next mountain region: the Black Forest<\/em>! Unexpectedly, that was some serious cycling business. Long climbs, going back up to over 1000m of elevation, steep downhills, and quite a bit of gravel riding, too. With the landscape the architecture changed noticeably, too, compared to what we saw in the Allg\u00e4u<\/em> just the day before.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Yet another change of scenery: long gravel roads climbing up into the Black Forest.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

We had booked another small farmhouse B&B in the heart of the Black Forest, not too far from Freiburg, surrounded by mountains, farm animals, and fresh air.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Breisgau Village and Vosges Mountains<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Our second to last day on the bikes got us through yet another two European regions. First, we passed through Freiburg, the center of Germany\u2019s Breisgau Village<\/em>, usually one of the sunniest and warmest regions of my home country. Not on this day, though. Clouds, cool temperatures and headwind made crossing this picturesque landscape quite exhausting. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Den Breisgau<\/em> Village<\/em>: warmest region in Germany and known for its wineries.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Once we crosse the border to France and turned North along the Vosges Mountains<\/em>, the wind was on our tails again, making it for an overall smooth ride. Much of which along calm paths along old canals, reminding us of last year\u2019s trip that followed the Empire State Trail through New York. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Crossing another international border on our bikes for a short section on the French side of Rhine River, going North.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Low hanging dark clouds and rain on the horizons of all four directions got us a bit nervous, and soon enough we were caught in some heavy downpours. Being wet and cold we decided not to stop in Strasbourg, and instead kept pedaling towards our last hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Long straight paths along canals reminded us of last year’s bikepacking trip through New York State.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Finale!<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

123 kilometers to go on our final day \u2013 still cool temperatures for early June, but a welcome tailwind and arguably one of the flattest routes of the trip. Basically, following the Rhine River for the entire day. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

It felt somewhat surreal knowing that we\u2019d end a three weeks adventure already, having covered such a long distance, so many landscapes, and countless memories. Cycling is a slow way of travelling, and yet it feels like you\u2019re coming such a long way in a relatively short time. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Yesterday we arrived completely drenched after half a couple hour of rain.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

And while we spent so much time in our saddles without any accident, it was today when we had our first collision: crossing a rail track, my unpredictable swerving to the left caused Tara to touch my rear wheel, ultimately letting her lose control of her own bike and fall. Avoidable and unnecessary, but luckily no major injuries occurred; road rash on knees and hips and elbows is painful, yet easy to treat on the go. It wasn\u2019t too far to the next pharmacy, where we got supplies to clean and bandage the wounds before continuing.<\/p>\n\n\n

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A silly collision of our two bikes caused some bruises and road rash, which is best treated with German chocolate.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

The closer we got to Schwetzingen, the more familiar everything looked. I spent most of my early professional life in this area back in the 2010s, and to some extent it felt like returning home after a long trip. A welcome tailwind pushed us northeastwards, and we made it to a cozy sheltered beergarden just in time before another downpoor at our final destination.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Final kilometers with tailwind along the Rhine River, back into Germany t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

After 2300 kilometers on the bike, a complete north-south-east-west crossing of Germany, Tara and I finished our second long bikepacking adventure together!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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12: F\u00fcssen to Meersburg<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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